The deserted fringes of el-Geneina are now uninhabited. Nevertheless, its vacant structures remain, vividly recounting their harrowing tales. Residences and businesses, scorched by fire, are riddled with bullet holes. Entrances are destroyed, and metal shutters lie shattered. Corroding Sudanese army tanks are scattered across the thoroughfares. During this infrequent visit by international journalists to Darfur, the lingering scent of last year’s fires was still discernible. Tom Fletcher, the UN’s new relief chief, remarked, “It was utterly chilling to drive through these smoked-out ruins and ghost towns.” His visit to this beleaguered capital of West Darfur represented the initial occasion a high-ranking UN official could access the area since Sudan’s brutal conflict commenced 19 months prior. Mr. Fletcher, who serves as the Under-Secretary-General for Humanitarian Affairs and Emergency Relief Coordinator, characterized the disaster by stating, “Darfur has seen the worst of the worst.” He added, “It’s facing this crisis of protection, including an epidemic of sexual violence, as well as the spectre of famine.” This brief yet crucial visit was facilitated only following extensive discussions with Sudan’s two primary opposing factions: the Sudanese Armed Forces (SAF), led by Gen Abdel Fattah al-Burhan, who commands the UN-recognized government, and the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces (RSF) of Gen Mohamed Hamdan Dagalo, known as Hemedti, who currently control the majority of Darfur. UN personnel identify the RSF as “those in control of the area”. Last year, RSF combatants, supported by allied Arab militias, engaged in widespread violence in el-Geneina, primarily targeting members of the non-Arab Masalit community. This conduct has been characterized by human rights organizations, including UN experts, as ethnic cleansing and potential war crimes and crimes against humanity. Human Rights Watch determined it to be a possible genocide. The Sudanese army has also faced severe condemnation. Reports indicate that Arab civilians also died amidst this unrest, many due to shelling from army tanks or intense air strikes. Both the RSF and the SAF refute allegations of war crimes, instead blaming their adversaries. A limited number of journalists have managed to reach el-Geneina to observe its dire situation, including the repercussions of two massacres that occurred over several months last year, which the UN estimates resulted in up to 15,000 fatalities. This surge of violence, sexual assault, and plunder is considered among the gravest atrocities in Sudan’s devastating conflict, which has engendered the planet’s most severe humanitarian emergency. Our journey commenced from the Chadian border town of Adre, accompanying the UN delegation. The trip, lasting under an hour, traversed a bumpy, dust-shrouded dirt path that cut across a barren semi-desert plateau, interspersed with partially constructed or derelict clay-brick structures. A limited quantity of large trucks laden with assistance from the UN’s World Food Programme, alongside fragile Sudanese carts pulled by horses or donkeys, frequently cross a border delineated by little more than a few wooden posts and ropes. However, beyond this boundary, across the no-man’s land within a dry, sloping wadi and along our desolate path, armed RSF combatants in camouflage attire patrol this region of Sudan. Some of these individuals are mere boys, displaying impish smiles. Prior to departing Adre, recognizing the potential difficulty of collecting testimonies within the conflict zone, we spent time at the extensive informal camp managed by the UN and Chadian authorities near the border. A large crowd, predominantly women of varying ages, some holding infants, occupied the expansive area. This constitutes a provisional encampment of remarkable scale. All individuals we interviewed originated from el-Geneina. They each recounted their experiences as they fled severe hunger and the atrocities inflicted upon their residences. A confident 14-year-old Sudanese girl, wearing a rose pink headscarf, calmly and softly stated regarding the horrific period, “When we fled, our young brothers were killed.” She added, “Some of them were still breastfeeding, too young to walk. Our elders escaping with us were killed too.” When questioned about her survival, she explained, “We had to hide by day and resume our journey in the middle of the night. If you move during the day, they will kill you. But even moving at night is still so dangerous.” Her family ultimately made the difficult decision to abandon their native land. While her mother accompanied her, she was unaware of her father’s whereabouts. An elderly woman, her dark eyes burning with fury, exclaimed, “Kids were separated from their fathers and husbands.” She continued, “They indiscriminately killed everyone – women, boys, babies, everyone.” Another woman interjected, as multiple narratives overlapped, stating, “We used to get food from our farms.” She elaborated, “But when the war began, we couldn’t farm and the animals ate our crops, so we were left with nothing.” Within el-Geneina, our initial destination was a humble health center situated in the al-Riyadh displacement camp. Here, Sudanese women adorned in vibrant veils occupied chairs lining the wall or gathered on bamboo mats on the ground. A group primarily composed of elderly men, some using crutches, sat nearer the front, sheltered by the corrugated metal roof and broad-branched trees that bordered an open wall. This area presents a contrasting image of el-Geneina. No armed RSF personnel are visibly present in this verdant district, characterized by modest mud dwellings. Young boys perform cartwheels, women in striking full-body veils walk with purpose, and donkey carts transporting water drums proceed along dusty unpaved roads. A community elder, a white-turbaned teacher who was the first to speak to the visiting UN team in their distinctive blue vests, emphasized, “We have suffered a lot.” He articulated his points with precision and caution, stating, “It’s true that when the war started some people supported SAF, and some supported RSF. But as displaced people we are neutral and in need of every kind of assistance.” This encampment was initially founded in 2003, serving as a reminder that Darfur’s suffering commenced two decades ago when the notorious Arab militia, known as the Janjaweed, instilled fear among non-Arab populations and faced accusations of numerous war crimes. This group was the precursor to the RSF. The teacher enumerated a range of fundamental requirements, including sustenance for Post navigation US Election Prompts Questions on Future of European Defense Israeli Strikes Threaten Ancient Lebanese Heritage, Experts Warn