London’s Centuries-Old Food Markets Set for 2028 Closure

London’s most ancient meat and fish markets, with a history spanning 850 years, are slated for permanent closure starting in 2028. This decision affects Smithfield meat market, situated close to St Paul’s Cathedral, and Billingsgate fish market, located in Canary Wharf, following a vote by the City of London Corporation to cease its backing for these establishments. The Corporation stated its intention to collaborate with traders to assist them in securing alternative locations. Traders, who have received compensation offers, expressed concerns that this action signifies the end of a long-standing London tradition, with one individual remarking, “it’s all about the money now”. Smithfield holds the distinction of being the United Kingdom’s largest wholesale meat market and ranks among Europe’s biggest. Its current form has operated at the present location since the 1860s, having previously functioned as a livestock market with origins in the medieval era. Development has already commenced to transform this site into a new cultural and commercial center, which will house the new London Museum. Billingsgate stands as the UK’s largest inland fish market, facilitating the sale of approximately 25,000 tonnes of fish and related products annually. The market initially operated on Lower Thames Street in the City starting in 1327, before relocating to its present Poplar, east London, premises in 1982. It supplies seafood to various enterprises, such as fishmongers, fish-and-chip establishments, delicatessens, and restaurants. This particular location has now been designated for the construction of thousands of new residential units. The Corporation had initially intended to relocate both markets, alongside New Spitalfields in Leyton, to a £1 billion custom-built facility in Dagenham. However, this proposal was abandoned earlier this month due to financial worries, given that the council had already invested £308 million in acquiring and preparing the Dagenham site. The Corporation’s Court of Common Council was responsible for the resolution to shut down the markets and provide compensation to the traders. The Corporation is now required to submit a Private Bill to Parliament, aiming to release itself from the legal obligations associated with operating the markets. It confirmed that traders would be permitted to maintain their activities at the markets until at least 2028. Prior to the announcement of the decision, an unnamed trader informed BBC London that he felt compelled to accept the compensation package or face the prospect of “leave with nothing”. The trader, whose family has been involved in selling fish at the location for seven decades, further stated: “For what we’ve been offered to vacate the premises, I can’t go and reinstate myself somewhere else. “I’ve been told to do my best with what I can do. It’s not great at all.” Regarding the broader consequences, he predicted that the closures would result in a “massive knock-on effect”. He elaborated, stating: “It means there’s no fish market for London, which would mean the populace of London would have to resort to using local fishmongers which obviously isn’t the end of the world, but where are the fishmongers going to get their fish? “London will be without a fish supplier, so there does need to be another fish market. When and how that’s going to happen I don’t know.” A different trader suggested that the market’s decline began with the choice to eliminate the licensing requirement for fish porters. He further commented: “For the younger guys down here it’s not good because no-one’s ever mentioned about the workers – they’re only ever interested in the companies,”. According to one trader who spoke to BBC London, both Brexit and the pandemic have subsequently contributed to the market’s downfall. Another trader remarked, “It’s getting to the point where everything will be bought in a vac-pack,”. Chris Hayward, the policy chairman for the City of London Corporation, characterized the decision as initiating a “positive new chapter” for the markets, asserting that it “empowers traders to build a sustainable future in premises that align with their long-term business goals”. He continued: “By stepping back from direct market operations, we will help to create opportunities for these businesses to thrive independently.” Hayward also stated: “We’ve worked closely with the traders and thank them for their input and understanding.” He affirmed: “We’re committed to making sure they have the financial support and guidance they need to transition seamlessly and successfully to new locations.” Dominic Twomey, who leads Barking and Dagenham Council, acknowledged the news as disappointing but conveyed that the council recognized the “financial pressures that key investment projects” were encountering. He further mentioned their dedication to collaborating with the Corporation to “unlock the huge potential” of the Dagenham Dock site.