Indian Cocoa Bean Production Boosted by Chocolate Manufacturers

George Matthew’s venture into cocoa bean production might have failed if not for the intervention of squirrels. His agricultural career commenced in the 1970s when he inherited a rubber plantation in Kerala, a southern Indian state, which he managed concurrently with his medical profession. The period was unfavorable for rubber cultivation, as declining prices led to financial losses. Consequently, ten years ago, Dr. Matthew decided to experiment with cocoa trees, hoping they would generate income to support the rest of his farm. He acquired and planted saplings, but the initial outcome was poor. “It was not that successful – most of the saplings died,” he states. Squirrels seemingly worsened the situation by taking and consuming cocoa bean pods. However, these animal incursions had an unforeseen benefit: cocoa seeds were dispersed throughout the farm. “All the scattered seeds soon grew in to plants and they were much healthier and stronger than the saplings I had planted,” Dr. Matthew recounts. He realized that “The trick was in sowing the seeds.” Today, Mr. Matthew cultivates 6,000 cocoa trees on his 50 acres of land. “I think it was the best decision I have made,” he comments. Despite possessing several regions with climatic conditions suitable for cocoa trees, India contributes only 1% to the world’s cocoa bean production. Global output is predominantly from West Africa, where Côte d’Ivoire and Ghana collectively account for over half of the annual worldwide yield. Indian growers can only supply a quarter of the beans required by domestic chocolate and confectionery producers. “The challenge is that it is grown in very fragmented small holdings, so it does not get the kind of attention cocoa should get,” explains Renny Jacob, chairman of India Cocoa, a private company that has been cultivating and processing cocoa beans for more than 30 years. He specifically notes that Indian farmers exhibit poor post-harvest bean handling. After being removed from their pods, beans undergo a fermentation process on the farm, which significantly influences their flavor. “Cocoa fermentation is a critical process in the production of chocolate, transforming raw cocoa beans into a form suitable for chocolate making,” states Sarin Partrick, chief executive of India Cocoa. He adds, “This complex process involves several stages and the activity of various micro-organisms, which help develop the beans’ flavour, aroma, and colour.” To enhance both the quantity and quality of cocoa bean production, the government has launched several initiatives. It is investing in programs to develop hybrid cocoa plants that are more productive than existing varieties. Additionally, there are schemes to train farmers in the latest techniques for growing and processing beans. Dr. Femina, who works in the government department tasked with developing cocoa production, says, “There is a vast opportunity for Indian farmers to enter into cocoa cultivation and avail the benefits.” The business sector is also investing in new cocoa tree varieties. Dr. Minimol J.S., head of cocoa research at Kerala Agriculture University, is collaborating with Cadbury to develop hybrid cocoa trees. In the project’s orchard, high-performing existing varieties are cross-bred with exotic species. So far, the program has produced 15 new varieties. “These are India’s first hybrid, disease-resistant seeds,” she confirms. “The seeds are drought tolerant varieties, and have withstood temperatures of even 40C, which is usually not possible,” she further states. The hybrids also demonstrate significantly greater productivity than traditional varieties. “The global average production is 0.25 kilogram per year per tree.” She elaborates, “In Kerala, we get 2.5 kilograms per year per tree. In Andhra and Telangana, we are even getting a yield of four or five kilograms per tree per year.” India’s cocoa bean production has increased substantially, reaching 110,000 tonnes this year, a 40% rise from 2015. However, this volume remains insufficient to meet the demand from local chocolate and confectionery manufacturers. India’s Cocoa Board estimates that industry demand is growing at 15% annually. Kocoatrait, founded in 2019, is among a new generation of Indian chocolate makers. Based in Chennai, a city on the east coast, the company exclusively uses Indian cocoa beans. One reason for this choice is that locally sourced beans have a considerably smaller carbon footprint than those shipped from other continents. Furthermore, according to Kocoatrait founder Nitin Chordia, Indian beans are more affordable than imports and possess a distinct flavor. Mr. Chordia also manages an agricultural school where farmers are instructed on the latest innovations in bean fermentation and drying. “We are constantly focussing on improving the post-harvest practices for cocoa farmers in India,” he states. He adds that Indian farmers need to produce higher quality beans. “We are not able to compete with international players in the bulk cocoa bean segment,” he says. While improvements have been made, Indian producers still have progress to achieve. “Over the last decade, in the fine-flavour cocoa bean segment, India has started to get noticed… but it will be several years before all Indian fine flavour cocoa beans reach a stage of large-scale international recognition.” Back in Kerala, Dr. Matthew reflects on his decade as a cocoa farmer. “It’s a tricky plant,” he observes. “Last year I had no yield. So no farmer can depend solely on cocoa – one has to plant other trees along with it.” Despite these challenges, he remains optimistic. “The future is bright, with huge demand.” He concludes, “I have been approached by a multi-national company to sell my production to them, so I will be making a good profit.”