Uniqlo Faces Online Criticism in China Over Cotton Sourcing Remarks

The Japanese apparel company Uniqlo is experiencing online criticism in China following a statement by the head of its parent firm, indicating that the retailer does not procure cotton from Xinjiang. Tadashi Yanai, chief executive of Fast Retailing, stated during a BBC interview aired this week that Uniqlo is “not using” cotton originating from the western Chinese province. Chinese commentators noted this remark and called for a boycott of the clothing retailer. Xinjiang cotton is a contentious issue due to accusations that China employs forced labor involving individuals from the Muslim Uyghur minority in its manufacturing. Beijing has consistently refuted these claims. Subsequent to the BBC’s report, commentators utilized the social media platform Weibo to advocate for a boycott of Uniqlo. Millions viewed posts featuring hashtags pertinent to the subject: “Controversy over Uniqlo founder’s remarks”. Other popular hashtags included: “Xinjiang cotton is the best in the world”, “I support Xinjiang cotton”, and “Uniqlo’s results in China sees a slump”. A user posted: “With this kind of attitude from Uniqlo, and their founder being so arrogant, they’re probably betting that mainland consumers will forget about it in a few days and continue to buy. So, can we stand firm this time?” This online response emerged after Mr. Yanai informed the BBC: “We’re not using [cotton from Xinjiang].” He proceeded, stating: “By mentioning which cotton we’re using…”, then paused and concluded his reply with: “Actually, it gets too political if I say anymore so let’s stop here”. China holds significant importance for Uniqlo, serving as both an expansive market and a primary manufacturing center. Beijing has consistently refuted accusations of forced labor put forth by various organizations, including the US government. The BBC has issued reports concerning allegations of forced labor. As of June 2022, companies became obligated to demonstrate that goods imported into the US are not manufactured with forced labor. H&M, a Swedish company, experienced the removal of its apparel from prominent e-commerce platforms in China subsequent to its refusal to procure cotton from Xinjiang. Numerous international brands, including Nike, Burberry, Esprit, and Adidas, faced boycotts after becoming entangled in the dispute. Uniqlo’s previous avoidance of this controversy was partly attributed to Mr. Yanai’s refusal to adopt a position on the matter then. Western businesses persistently find themselves involved in this contentious subject. In September, China’s commerce ministry initiated an inquiry into PVH, the parent company of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, alleging suspicion of “unjustly boycotting” Xinjiang cotton and other goods “without factual basis”. PVH has indicated its intention to respond in compliance with pertinent regulations, as reported by media. Copyright 2024 BBC. All rights reserved. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Read about our approach to external linking.