The route leading to Idlib, a secluded area in Syria’s north-west, still bears the marks of former conflict zones, including trenches, abandoned military positions, rocket casings, and ammunition. Until just over a week ago, this region represented the sole territory within the nation under opposition control. From Idlib, insurgent forces, spearheaded by the Islamist organization Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS), launched a significant offensive that led to the overthrow of Bashar al-Assad and concluded his family’s five-decade authoritarian rule in Syria. Consequently, these groups have emerged as the country’s de facto governing bodies and appear to be extending their administrative model across the rest of Syria. Within Idlib’s urban core, opposition flags, characterized by a green stripe and three red stars, were prominently displayed in public squares and enthusiastically waved by individuals of all ages following Assad’s ousting. Walls featured graffiti celebrating the resistance against the former regime. While damaged structures and debris served as reminders of the recent conflict, renovated homes, newly opened businesses, and well-maintained roadways indicated tangible improvements. Nevertheless, concerns were voiced regarding what some perceived as heavy-handed governance by the authorities. During a visit earlier this week, streets were observed to be relatively clean, traffic signals and streetlights were operational, and law enforcement officers were visible in bustling areas. These basic amenities, often lacking in other parts of Syria, were a source of local pride. HTS originated from al-Qaeda, but in recent years, it has actively sought to redefine itself as a nationalist movement, distinct from its jihadist past and committed to removing Assad. As its fighters advanced towards Damascus earlier this month, its leadership articulated a vision for “building a Syria for all Syrians.” Despite these efforts, the organization continues to be designated as a terrorist entity by the US, the UK, the UN, and other nations, including Turkey, which provides support to certain Syrian rebel factions. The group established control over the majority of this region, home to 4.5 million inhabitants, in 2017, subsequently introducing stability after years of civil war. The governing body, known as the Salvation Government, manages essential services such as water and electricity distribution, waste collection, and road maintenance. Its public services and military operations are financed by taxes collected from businesses, farmers, and border crossings with Turkey. “Under Assad, they used to say that Idlib was the forgotten city,” remarked Dr. Hamza Almoraweh, a cardiologist, while attending to patients in a hospital established within an old post office warehouse. He and his wife relocated from Aleppo in 2015 when the conflict there escalated, but he has no plans to return, even with the city now under rebel control. “We’ve seen a lot of development here. Idlib has a lot of things that it didn’t have under the Assad regime.” In an effort to gain international recognition amidst internal opposition, HTS has moderated its stance, revoking some stringent social regulations it had imposed upon assuming power, including dress codes for women and a prohibition on music in schools. Furthermore, some individuals point to recent protests, including those against government-imposed taxes, as evidence that a degree of criticism is tolerated, a stark contrast to the repression characteristic of the Assad era. “It’s not a full democracy, but there’s freedom,” stated Fuad Sayedissa, an activist. He added, “There were some problems at the beginning but, in the last years, they’ve been acting in a better way and are trying to change.” Sayedissa, originally from Idlib, currently resides in Turkey, where he operates the non-governmental organization Violet. For him, as for thousands of other Syrians, Assad’s downfall meant the opportunity to revisit his city – in his case, for the first time in a decade. However, demonstrations have also taken place in opposition to what some describe as authoritarian governance. To solidify its authority, experts indicate that the group targeted extremists, integrated rival factions, and incarcerated opponents. “How the government will act in the whole Syria is a different story,” Sayedissa commented. Syria is a diverse nation, and after decades of oppression and violence perpetrated by the regime and its allies, many are eager for justice. “People are still celebrating, but they’re also worried about the future.” An attempt was made to interview a local official, but it was reported that all officials had departed for Damascus to assist in the formation of the new government. Approximately an hour’s drive from Idlib, in the small Christian village of Quniyah, church bells rang on 8 December for the first time in a decade, commemorating Assad’s removal. This community, situated near the Turkish border, was subjected to bombing during the civil war, which commenced in 2011 when Assad suppressed peaceful protests against his rule, leading many residents to flee. Only 250 people remained. “Syria is better since Assad fell,” declared Friar Fadi Azar. Nevertheless, the ascent of Islamist groups has sparked concerns that minority populations, including Assad’s Alawites, could face risks, despite HTS’s assurances to religious and ethnic communities that they would be safeguarded. “In the last two years, they [HTS] started changing… Before, it was very hard,” Friar Azar noted. Previously, properties were confiscated, and religious practices were restricted. Now, “They gave [our community] more freedom, they called on other Christians who were refugees to come back to take their land and homes back.” Yet, questions persist regarding the authenticity of this change and whether the group can be trusted. “What can we do? We have no other option,” he responded. “We trust them.” Sayedissa, the activist, was asked why even opponents were hesitant to criticize the group. He replied, “They’re now the heroes… [But] we have red lines. We’ll not allow dictators again, Jolani or any other,” referring to Ahmed al-Shara, the HTS leader who abandoned his nom de guerre Abu Mohammad al-Jolani after assuming power. “If they act as dictators, the people are ready to say no, because they now have their freedom.” Post navigation Pope Francis Assassination Plot in Iraq Foiled by British Intelligence Tip-Off US Finds Israel Has Not Breached Law on Gaza Aid Blockage, Amid UN Warnings