MV Hebridean Isles Retired After Decades of Service, Islanders Express Affection

After almost four decades of operation, one of Scotland’s vital ferry services has been decommissioned. The MV Hebridean Isles departed the Stornoway quay for its last journey on Sunday, sounding its horn twice in farewell, en route to Glasgow before its eventual dismantling. For the island communities, whose existence is deeply connected to the maritime environment, vessels operated by Caledonian MacBrayne, Britain’s largest ferry company, represent more than mere structures of steel and aluminium. “Heb Isles” leaves behind a ship-shaped hole in the hearts of many former passengers and seafarers who have come to regard it as a trusty old friend. This vessel received its name, reflecting the islands it was intended to connect, during a sunny ceremony in July 1985 at the now-defunct Cochrane shipyard in Selby, North Yorkshire. Its launch marked two significant milestones: the Duchess of Kent, acting as “lady sponsor,” became the inaugural member of the Royal Family to christen a CalMac ship, and it was the first vessel constructed for the ferry operator outside of Scotland. To commemorate the launch, two pipers performed the Skye Boat Song. At that time, Margaret Thatcher occupied No 10, Sister Sledge held the Number One spot in the music charts, and health and safety regulations were considerably less stringent than current standards. Shipyard employees removed the final supporting “shores” and wedges, then quickly sought shelter as the massive ship executed a dramatic sideways launch into the River Ouse, sliding over their heads. The construction cost of the ship was £5.5m, and following several months of outfitting, it commenced its maiden voyage off Scotland’s west coast in December. The vessel operated for 15 years on the “Uig Triangle,” connecting Skye, North Uist, and Harris, before being reassigned to the Islay crossing. Over its service life, it navigated the majority of Scotland’s maritime routes. Beyond its regular timetable, the crew willingly dedicated their time to organize special “booze cruises” to generate funds for island charities. The initial event, held in 1992, featured a country and western band performing on the car deck, and successfully raised thousands of pounds towards acquiring a breast cancer scanner for the Western Isles. To the island residents, the ship introduced enhanced levels of comfort and contemporary amenities, its lights shining brilliantly during its passage across the Little Minch. When chief engineer Brian Fraser requested the crew reduce the vessel’s illuminations, the ship’s radio officer responded with a playful rhyming message: “Come to the islands, see the sightsLewis, Harris and the Heb Isles lights.Bright she is as she can beEverything’s on just come and see.” The vessel remains a vivid memory for former CalMac crew members, who have been recalling their experiences aboard. Sarah Clark, a stewardess on the ship from 2002 to 2005, recounted how the crew utilized the car deck after passengers had disembarked. “We had a wee fitness session going on as well, and when we tied up at 20:00 there was a handful of us who would run up and down the car deck after work.” “I had my own passenger clicker (still have it), 64 lengths of the car deck added up to a 10k.” Tony McQuade, CalMac’s longest-serving captain, served as chief officer on the Heb Isles during a voyage from Islay when the final vehicle loaded was a hearse. Shortly after departure, they discovered an incorrect coffin had been loaded, prompting their return to port for the exchange, which occurred in full view of the perplexed passengers. He remembered, “In the next day’s paper, there was an article on how CalMac had loaded the wrong coffin onto the vessel – no mention of the undertaker,” adding, “As was common then, the captain received a sample of Islay’s finest for his troubles.” Alex Morrison, who commanded the ship as Master for 10 years starting in 1987, recounted encountering a Force 10 gale as the vessel neared Skye. Incapable of docking, they sought refuge in Harris before returning to North Uist. He stated, “That was 12 hours I had the poor souls out there and took them back to where I took them from.” John Angus McDonald, a senior catering rating, also remembered turbulent waters when the ship transported passengers to Islay for Hogmanay celebrations. The buffet spread in the bar slid off the table, and passengers who had already eaten quickly became ill. “Everybody was being sick, apart from one man who kept calmly coming up the bar and ordering large whiskies.” As the bottles were secured to prevent breakage, the crew member inquired about the passenger’s composure. “He replied he was on the Russian convoys during World War Two so was well-used to it. When we docked, he skipped off – while his wife had to be helped off.” Numerous individuals have expressed their fondness for the ship, but for Mairi Ann Macdonald, it occupies an exceptionally significant place in her affections. She began working on the ship as a junior catering rating at 16 years old in the summer of 1989. Weeks later, she met Neil, a young man from Inverness, who was visiting the islands for a weekend with friends. Upon his return home on Monday, they exchanged phone numbers, inscribed on two pound notes as they had no other paper. They soon began dating, and the subsequent year, while on the observation deck of the Hebridean Isles on a beautiful summer morning, he proposed marriage. She recounted, “I was gobsmacked – I said are you joking, are you taking the mick here? And he said ‘no, I’m serious’ – and that’s when he handed me the ring.” The vessel later transported them to their wedding on Harris. The morning after the ceremony, as they bid farewell to guests returning to the mainland, the crew honored the newly married couple with a horn blast. This union proved beneficial for the ferry operator, as the couple had four daughters, two of whom eventually joined CalMac. After completing training as a motor woman, their eldest daughter’s first assignment was on the Hebridean Isles. Mairi stated, “Two generations of my family worked on the same boat and absolutely loved working on her. Precious memories in our hearts and lives.” In September, upon learning of the Hebridean Isles’ impending retirement, the couple undertook one last voyage together on the veteran ship. “It brought a tear to our eyes, it was a very emotional trip but I was delighted we have done this trip for the very last time. “We did a lot of reminiscing on the journey.” The vessel’s ultimate destination is an unconfirmed shipyard where it will undergo dismantling. This decision presented a challenge for CalMac, which faces difficulties in sustaining services with its aging fleet while anticipating the arrival of new ships. However, with its five-year survey approaching and certificates due to expire, the expenses and duration necessary to keep the ship operational were deemed impractical. A significant number of vessels within the CalMac fleet are now so old that obtaining spare parts is impossible, necessitating custom manufacturing. Any salvageable components from the Hebridean Isles will be stored in a substantial CalMac warehouse in Gourock, a veritable treasure trove of ferry equipment utilized to maintain the fleet. Consequently, although the MV Hebridean Isles will soon cease to exist as a whole, portions of the ship may continue to traverse Scottish waters for years. For those who experienced life, joy, and love on its decks, the recollections will endure considerably longer. Copyright 2024 BBC. All rights reserved. The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Read about our approach to external linking.