Artist Unveils Modern Interpretation of Lost 16th-Century Embroidery

A contemporary artist has created a new interpretation of an embroidery that was lost from one of Elizabethan England’s notable stately homes. This textile artwork, titled “Virtuous Woman,” measures 3m x 3.4m and serves as a modern rendition of a 16th-century embroidery that disappeared from Hardwick Hall in Derbyshire. The artwork, which symbolizes “brilliant women,” matches the dimensions and scale of the original item and is composed of recycled fabric contributed by both staff and visitors. Layla Khoo, the artist behind the creation, stated that her new work “represents and reflects the wide-ranging views, beliefs and life experiences of Hardwick’s visitors.” In 1573, Bess of Hardwick commissioned a series of five monumental applique embroideries for her stately residence; however, one of these pieces did not endure over the centuries and subsequently became known as the “lost embroidery.” The initial five appliques were similarly crafted from recycled materials, notably incorporating Catholic vestments acquired during the Reformation of the church and the dissolution of the monasteries. These artworks were designed to illustrate Bess of Hardwick’s virtues and were displayed within Hardwick Hall to communicate her significance, affluence, learning, and principles to visitors. The textile pieces conveyed this information by featuring women whom Bess of Hardwick had selected for depiction. These figures included Lucrecia alongside Chasteti and Liberaliter, Penelope with Perseverans and Paciens, and Zenobia accompanied by Magnanimitas and Prudentia; the fourth piece depicted Athemesia with Constans and Pietas. The fifth piece, referred to as the “lost embroidery,” depicted Cleopatra with Justicia and Fortitudo. From April to June 2024, individuals visiting Hardwick participated in the creation of the new artwork, contributing by cutting, sewing, and embroidering contemporary words representing virtue or value. Fabric inscribed with the names of virtuous women was subsequently sewn into the garment of the central figure within the piece, which reached completion on Monday. Ms. Khoo stated that rather than replicating the original 16th-century Cleopatra piece, the central figure chosen was a woman “who we might align our values with today.” Following her selection of Dolly Parton as her virtuous woman, Ms. Khoo commented: “We asked people to consider the virtues and values we aim for today, and the women we look to who represent them, nominating their own ‘virtuous woman’ to add to the piece.” She added, “It has been an absolute joy to see so many visitors come forward to not only nominate their chosen woman, but share, discuss and debate the reasons for their choices.” The National Trust, the organization that owns the property, announced that the new artwork is scheduled for public exhibition inside Hardwick Hall throughout 2025.