Dedicated Fan’s Extensive Journey to Support Estonia in Azerbaijan

Mark Corbett undertook a three-day journey to witness Estonia compete in Azerbaijan. Being a football supporter can often be a solitary experience, particularly when following one’s team to a distant location like Azerbaijan after such a prolonged trip. Corbett is arguably Estonia’s most devoted fan; at one point, he was the sole away supporter holding a ticket for the match in Azerbaijan, despite not being Estonian himself. An Englishman residing in Estonia, he regularly attends their national team’s games, and upon the release of the Nations League fixtures, he found an opportunity for adventure too compelling to decline. His remarkable expedition, which involved multiple flights and a lift with local farmers, required him to overcome various challenges before he joined a small group of visiting fans on a chilly evening in northern Azerbaijan. Ultimately, the Nations League Group C1 match on Saturday concluded in a goalless draw. The game was held at the Gabala City Stadium in northern Azerbaijan. The 44-year-old initially flew from Tallinn, Estonia, to Rome, then proceeded to Baku, Azerbaijan’s capital. However, he discovered that the match would not be hosted at the country’s usual venues: the Baku Olympic Stadium, which hosted the 2019 Europa League final between Chelsea and Arsenal, or the Tofiq Bahramov Republican Stadium, located across the city. Corbett stated, “Of course I was assuming the game would be in Baku. I was wrong.” He added, “After I’d booked flights and accommodation, they confirmed, at around four weeks’ notice, it would be in a very small mountain town a five-hour drive north of Baku called Gabala (population 12,808).” Despite this late change, he was committed: “But by that time I’d committed myself to going so I decided ‘what the heck, I’ll find a way’.” He further explained his motivation: “I’m a member of the Jalgpallihaigla (Estonian national team supporters’ club). I go to all the home games and watched them away twice before. Plus I like discovering new countries and I’d never been to Azerbaijan, so I thought, ‘what the hell, why not’.” Upon contacting the Estonian FA about ticket availability, he was informed he was the only person to have inquired and was subsequently sent a complimentary ticket. This was notable given that local fans would only pay the equivalent of £2.15 for a pitch-side view or 80p for a seat behind the goal. Corbett mused, “I don’t know if it was free because the Estonian FA couldn’t be bothered to collect such a tiny amount from me or perhaps because I was one of the few going so they just gave me a complimentary ticket.” The official attendance for the match was 1,600, with only a handful of these spectators supporting Estonia. With one hurdle cleared, another challenge emerged: arranging transportation to the stadium. An extended public holiday in Azerbaijan meant that the limited train service, which typically only operates on weekends, was unavailable. Furthermore, there were no bus services from Baku to Gabala. Fortunately, Corbett had a contact in Azerbaijan who provided a solution, offering a minibus ride to the venue. He traveled with his contact’s “uncle and a group of farmers from the Gabala area.” Corbett described the journey: “The journey from Baku to Gabala was an interesting experience. The roads vary wildly in quality, constantly switching from modern highway to pot hole-ridden dirt track.” He also commented on the facilities: “And the less said about the ‘services’ toilets we stopped at, the better. It was a hole in the ground with the most unbearable stench.” Thus, after a three-day journey commencing in Tallinn and passing through Rome, Baku, and a lengthy minibus trip, Corbett, originally from Oldham but a resident of Estonia for six years, was present to support Jurgen Henn’s team. He discovered he was one of only eight individuals cheering for Estonia. There was no segregation, so the visiting fans sat alongside the Azerbaijani supporters. Corbett recounted, “There was a group of five, a group of two, and me on my own but we didn’t know each other. None of us had a clue the others were going, we all went there thinking we might be the only ones.” He noted the positive atmosphere: “There was no friction with the home fans. At full-time they wished us well and some wanted to swap scarves.” After the game, he enjoyed interacting with locals: “After the game I enjoyed chatting with locals over some beers. They thought I was crazy for travelling there but at the same time loved the concept and expressed a wish to do the same with their country.” Some Estonia players gave their shirts to some of the travelling fans after the game. The extensive journey nearly yielded an immediate reward when Estonia’s Henri Anier struck the crossbar after just 12 seconds. However, the hosts also hit the woodwork later in the first half from Elvin Jafarquilyev’s 25-yard free-kick. Azerbaijan, managed by Fernando Santos, who famously led Portugal to Euro 2016 victory, demonstrated superior play in the second half, with Ozan Kokcu hitting the post. Nevertheless, neither team managed to score a winning goal. Estonia secured a draw, a result that ensured they avoided automatic relegation to the lowest tier of the Nations League. Following the match, some players presented their shirts to the traveling fans. Corbett reflected on the experience: “Was it worth it? 100%. The nerves as Estonia held on under pressure. The release of tension as the final whistle went and we knew we were safe from relegation, the players being kind enough to acknowledge us, the people I met, the sights I saw, the things I learned about Azerbaijan and especially the food I ate.” He concluded, “These kind of experiences, that the combination of sport and travel gives you, are just priceless for me.” His adventure, however, is not yet complete. Corbett revealed, “When looking for cheap flights out of Azerbaijan, Budapest came up.” He continued, “Knowing Hungary borders Slovakia, I couldn’t resist checking how feasible it is to get to the stadium in Trnava when Estonia are the visitors on Tuesday.” His research proved fruitful: “Turns out it’s easy enough by bus… So I’ll be there.”