Digital Dyeing Technology Aims to Reduce Apparel Industry’s Environmental Impact

Located in a rural area of Taiwan, amidst various dye houses and small manufacturing plants, the startup Alchemie Technology is nearing completion of a project it asserts will transform the worldwide apparel sector and significantly cut its carbon emissions. This UK-based startup has focused on fabric dyeing, recognized as one of the most polluting segments of the clothing industry, by introducing what it calls the world’s first digital dyeing method. Dr. Alan Hudd, founder of Alchemie, explains the conventional fabric dyeing procedure: “Traditionally in dyeing fabric, you’re steeping the fabric in water at 135 degrees celsius for up to four hours or so – gallons and tons of water. For example, to dye one ton of polyester, you’re generating 30 tons of toxic wastewater.” He further notes that this method, which originated 175 years ago in England’s northwest, specifically in the Lancashire and Yorkshire cotton mills, was subsequently disseminated globally: “That is the same process that was developed 175 years ago in the northwest of England, in the Lancashire cotton mills and the Yorkshire cotton mills, and we exported it,” initially to the US and later to manufacturing facilities across Asia. Annually, the apparel industry consumes an estimated five trillion litres of water solely for fabric dyeing, as reported by the World Resources Institute, a non-profit research organization based in the US. Consequently, this sector contributes to 20% of global industrial water pollution and depletes essential resources such as groundwater in certain regions. Moreover, it generates a substantial carbon footprint throughout its operations, accounting for approximately 10% of yearly global emissions, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. Alchemie asserts that its technology offers a solution to these issues. Named Endeavour, the company’s machine integrates fabric dyeing, drying, and fixing into a significantly expedited and water-efficient process. The company states that Endeavour operates on the same principle as inkjet printing, enabling it to quickly and accurately apply dye onto and into the fabric. Its 2,800 dispensers release approximately 1.2 billion droplets per linear meter of material. Dr. Hudd explains, “What we’re effectively doing is registering and placing a drop, a very small drop precisely and accurately onto the fabric. And we can switch these drops on and off, just like a light switch.” Alchemie reports substantial efficiencies from this process, including a 95% reduction in water usage, up to an 85% decrease in energy consumption, and an operational speed three to five times greater than conventional methods. Although initially developed in Cambridge, the company is currently in Taiwan to evaluate Endeavour’s performance in a practical industrial setting. Ryan Chen, Alchemie’s new chief of operations, who possesses a background in Taiwanese textile manufacturing, commented, “The UK, they’re really strong in R&D projects, they’re really strong in inventing new things, but certainly if you want to move to commercialisation you need to go to the real factories.” Alchemie is not unique in its pursuit of a nearly water-free dyeing method. Other innovators include China-based textile firm NTX, which, according to its website, has created a heatless dyeing process capable of reducing water use by 90% and dye consumption by 40%, and Swedish startup Imogo, which employs a “digital spray application” offering comparable environmental advantages. Neither NTX nor Imogo responded to the BBC’s request for an interview. Kirsi Niinimäki, a design professor at Finland’s Aalto University specializing in textile futures, describes the solutions presented by these companies as looking “quite promising.” However, she also expressed a desire for more detailed data concerning aspects such as the fixing process and extended research on fabric durability. Despite the nascent stage of these developments, Ms. Niinimäki believes that companies such as Alchemie have the potential to introduce significant transformations to the industry. She stated, “All these kinds of new technologies, I think that they are improvements. If you’re able to use less water, for example, that of course means less energy, and perhaps even less chemicals – so that of course is a huge improvement.” In Taiwan, certain operational challenges persist, such as adapting the Endeavour machine to a climate hotter and more humid than that of the UK. Matthew Avis, Alchemie’s service manager, who assisted in reassembling Endeavour at its new factory site, found that the machine requires an air-conditioned setting for operation. This insight is crucial, considering the prevalence of apparel manufacturing in southern Asia. The company has also outlined ambitious objectives for 2025. Following its trial with polyester in Taiwan, Alchemie plans to proceed to South Asia and Portugal to conduct further machine tests and experiment with cotton. Furthermore, the company must determine how to expand Endeavour’s production. Major fashion corporations, such as Inditex, which owns Zara, collaborate with thousands of manufacturing facilities. To satisfy its fabric dyeing requirements, Inditex’s suppliers would necessitate hundreds of Endeavour machines operating in tandem. This example represents only one company, with numerous others facing similar demands.